Stop Overpaying for Your Solarium Lamps
When you’re picking out a horse solarium, you aren’t really buying a brand name. You’re buying specific infrared wavelengths. You need heat that actually sinks deep into the muscle without burning the skin. That’s exactly what we do. We build infrared lamps that hit the same marks as the big, expensive international brands. We just care about the physics of heat, not the logo on the box. The heat and the hustle We use high-purity quartz glass and halogen filaments. Why? Because it keeps the heat dense and consistent from one end of the tube to the other. We’ve spent a lot of time tweaking the wattage and voltage so you don’t get “cold spots.” Now, a quick tip: if you crank up the wattage to warm up a horse faster, just make sure your housing has enough airflow. If the heat traps inside, you’ll burn out your filaments way too soon. The nitty-gritty stuff We use heavy-wall quartz. It’s tough. It won’t bow or warp when things get hot. As for the fit, we stick with standard R7s or Sk15 connectors. They click right in. No fuss, no weird adapters. You just pop them into your existing European or American frame and you’re good to go. We also apply a special coating to the glass to push the energy right where it needs to be: deep into the tissue. Real-world results These lamps do exactly what the top-tier brands do. You get the same warmth and the same results, just without the “luxury” price tag. But look, a word of caution. High-output shortwave lamps get hot—fast. If your timers are off, you could overheat the horse. I always suggest using a precision dimmer. That way, you can dial the temperature up or down depending on how thick the horse’s winter coat is. It’s just safer.